Sketchy Business

Different eyes see different things (differently)

In an earlier post, I wrote about how I feel creatively inadequate when I compare what I do - taking/making pictures - with what creators do. Creators, as in painters, sculptors, architects and let’s say: sketch artists. While I was taking pictures of the magicians and their audiences at Largo do Carmo, I noticed this man who was sitting there quietly, a sketchbook resting on his legs, some paint at the side, a fountain pen between his fingers. From where I stood, I could not see what he was creating, so I moved a bit closer. We had a very brief conversation, since we were both busy to capture the performance.

Going through Pedro Loureiro’s sketches, I think he captured the essence of each magician beautifully. Watching him move his pen and brushes over the paper, it is clear that Pedro does not need a lot of elements to create a sketch that is pleasing to the eye. In fact, he is a master of leaving out what is not essential to what he wants to show. To that extent, our way of working is the same. The big difference is that he actually creates. Where I try to frame my subjects, I have far less opportunity leave out of the picture what I may not want to show. Of course, I can try to zoom in or out, move around, change the angle and depth of focus to avoid certain elements. But, being on a square, there is traffic, there are people moving around, the garbage container is a real thing and if I constantly wait to let certain elements leave the frame, I will never get a decent shot.

In that respect, the sketch artist’s job is easier: all he has to do is decide not to draw the background at all and concentrate only on the essence. Doing that masterfully, is the real art. An art that Pedro is good at. Very good, I think. Please, visit his Storysketching website for more information.

What goes around

There is so much going on at the square. It is, after all, a tourist hot spot. There is the archeology museum, where people are constantly gathering, there are watering holes, benches, playing children, an ambulance trying to pass the narrow streets - blocked by taxis and gawking tourists, an old woman trying to enter a taxi - without the driver wanting to lift a finger. And suddenly, a face in the crowd that I recognize from years earlier. For a while, the magicians are out of my mind. Everyone who creates anything, knows that we have to give in to chance. We have to allow for the unexpected to be our guide. To let the magic in.

In 2011, when visiting Lisbon for the second time, like everybody else I went to the Miradouro das Portas do Sol. People had told me that it was one of those places you just have to see. So, I went and tried to enjoy the view. Not easy, because of the huge amount of tourists. They were everywhere and the all wanted to make selfies and pictures and be seen at the same spot as everybody else. There was actually a line of people, waiting to get to that specific spot next to the wall with that specific view of the river. I started to feel I did not want to be there at all. While already walking away from the spot, the sound of a guitar managed to cut through the noise. It sounded different, special. I turned around and slowly walked towards a skinny man, holding a battered guitar ever so gently. With his eyes closed, he seemed to ask the guitar questions. As the guitar answered, it became clear this was not some busker regurgitating someone else’s chord progressions. Everything else disappeared to the background, and all I could hear was the guitar. Finally, amidst the noisy hell of the tourist season, there was peace. Afterwards, we talked a bit, we smoked a bit, I took a few pictures, learned his name was Fredo and that he was actually a classically trained guitar player and composer. I gave him some money and we went our separate ways.

Goes around

After Steve Faulkner’s performance, I check which performer is next on my list and where I have to go. A day earlier, I decided to point my lens at escape artist Humphrey Cornthwaite. For that, I have several hours to get to the Jardim da Estrela, so I can walk around a bit and maybe do a bit of street-photography. i definitely want to find a place to put down my camera bag and have a bite. A quick look at the map helps me decide on a more or less indirect route to the park. One last look around on the square, and on a bench on the other side of the square, I recognize… Fredo.

Life has not been nice to him, these past years. Looking skinnier than ever and he is not carrying his guitar. He tells me has been hit by a nasty virus that brought him close to the forever silence that awaits us all and still being in recovery, he is too weak to carry his gear around and play. He is still a charmer though; in less then two minutes after I walk away from him he is already talking to the next young lady.

Before and after the tasca

The Jardim da Estrela is not a big park, but a nice one. Construction work began in 1842, was interrupted between 1844 and 1850 due to the then turbulent political situation. Under the guidance of gardeners Jean Bonnard and João Francisco, the construction was continued, resulting in the inauguration on April 3, 1852. In the second half of the 19th century, the Passeio da Estrela was fashionable and at the time had elements that no longer exist, such as greenhouses, kiosks, and a Chinese pavilion.

It is a very nice place to take some shelter from the sun for a while, but after circling to the park one time to verify where the magic performances will take place, I really want to eat something. I ask DuckDuckGo for a reasonably priced tasca nearby and leave the park. I end up in Tasca dos Poiais, where I wait outside for a few minutes while the floor is being cleaned. What a gem of a place! I think that if you would want to have dinner at dinner-time, you’d better make a reservation, because it does not have a lot of tables. But they open early in the morning and offer breakfast, lunch and dinner and the food is fantastic. I refuse to be one of those customers that takes pictures of their dish to share on my socials, but I could have. The bitoque a cavalo looked good and tasted better. I almost licked my plate clean.

On the way home

After Humphrey Cornthwaite’s performance, it was getting really too dark to take pictures of anything and my feet told me I wanted to go home. Time to stretch my legs, setting course towards Cais do Sodré in such a manner that I eventually arrived at Santos. Took some grainy pictures along the way. It was fun. Goodbye smelly Lisbon, see you soon!